[Part 2] Backpacking Jawa on a Budget: Malang and The Famous Mount Bromo

Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park

Photo by Kevin Zhang on Unsplash

As I mentioned in the previous article, we checked out of our accommodation and headed to Malang Station. That’s because we were planning to go to the Bromo Tengger Semeru area, which also includes the Bromo region.

Previous Part: [Part 1] Backpacking Jawa on a Budget: First Stop, Surabaya!

Why are we heading to the station when, as you probably know, the closest station to Bromo is already Malang Station? Well, here's the tea — at the station, there’s a service called KSPN DAMRI.

So, what’s KSPN DAMRI? KSPN stands for Kawasan Strategis Pariwisata Nasional or National Strategic Tourism Area. True to its name, this DAMRI service is designed to meet the high demand from travelers like you who wanna reach tourist destinations using super affordable public transport. Yep, that means it’s government-subsidized, folks!

And guess how much the ticket costs? Just Rp10,000 one way 😱 Crazy cheap, right? But make sure you book your return ticket right away so you don’t miss out!

Personally, I think KSPN DAMRI is such a lifesaver, especially for budget travelers like us. It's super affordable and really helpful. The drivers are also super friendly and totally experienced — even on those winding mountain roads around Bromo. The only downside? Booking it through the app is a nightmare, like seriously K-POP concert ticket war level 😩

If you want to play it safe, just contact the DAMRI Malang call center directly — you can easily find the number on Google. They also have all the DAMRI schedules available in their WhatsApp Business cart.

You can actually hop on the DAMRI from Surabaya too. Buuut here’s the catch: if you board from Surabaya (for example: Surabaya Gubeng Station), you’ll be dropped off at Rest Area Sukapura. Meanwhile, if you board from Malang Station, you can get off at either Rest Area Tosari or Rest Area Wonokitri.

Sukapura’s still a bit far — and if you’re planning to catch the sunrise without rushing, I wouldn’t recommend looking for hotels or jeep rentals from there. I personally recommend the Tosari or Wonokitri areas instead. But of course, feel free to adjust it based on where your hotel is and what you wanna do in Bromo.

If you’re in for a chill sunrise hunt, Tosari and Wonokitri are your best bet. They're super close to the main sunrise viewpoints. But if you're not chasing sunrise and just wanna explore the Bromo Tengger Semeru area, Sukapura works just fine too! 🌄✨

Here’s the route and schedule you need to know:
🛤️ From Malang Station: 07.30 AM & 04.00 PM
🚌 From DAMRI Malang Pool: 08.00 AM & 04.20 PM
🌄 From Rest Area Tosari: 08.00 AM & 01.00 PM
🌄 From Rest Area Wonokitri: 08.30 AM & 01.30 PM

Keep in mind, the schedule and ticket prices may change, so always stay updated via the DAMRI app or WhatsApp DAMRI Malang. Better safe than sorry, right? 😉

Heading to Rest Area Tosari (TNBTS)

TNBTS stand for Taman Nasional Bromo Tengger Semeru

We chose Rest Area Tosari and took the 4:00 PM departure from Malang Station. That’s why I mentioned in Part 1 that we had to make the most of our time from morning to afternoon 😂. Once everything in Malang is settled, heading to Bromo feels smooth, and we can go to the next destination with peace of mind.

The estimated travel time from Malang to Tosari is around 1 hour and 30 minutes, so we arrived at around 5:30 PM—just in time for that gorgeous sunset 💃💃

Now, you might be wondering: Did we join an open trip for the sunrise hunting at Bromo?
The answer is nope.

After reading some reviews from fellow travelers who joined open trips to Bromo, I found that while there are definitely pros and cons, here’s the tea for pros:
✅ It’s super easy and convenient—you just pay, wait for the pickup, and you’ll be guided all the way back to Malang (if that’s your chosen pickup/drop-off point).
✅ Plus, it’s a great way to meet new people—especially if you’re traveling solo!

So, what’s the downside? IT’S EXHAUSTING.

A lot of travelers said they were super tired. Just imagine this: if your pickup point is in Malang, you’ll get picked up from your hotel/hostel starting at 1:00 AM (some even as early as midnight!). For the girls, that means waking up extra early to do your makeup and get ready.

Just picture it—you’ve spent the whole day exploring Malang, then maybe crash right after Isha prayer, only to wake up again at 11 PM. That means you get, what, 3 hours of actual sleep? And it’s not even guaranteed to be restful. If you’re like me, you’d probably be lying there wide awake, heart pounding from the excitement of going to Bromo 😵‍💫

With that kind of sleep deprivation and exhaustion... remember, you’re still only halfway to Bromo 👀😂

Yup, once you get picked up in Malang, they’ll take you to a meeting point where all the jeeps are lined up. This is usually where you can rent jackets and beanies so you don’t freeze to death while watching the sunrise ❄️🧤

But hold up, it’s not go time yet. You’ll probably wait around for a bit—no clue what for. Then the guides will assign everyone to their jeeps, and yes, you’ll be shoulder-to-shoulder with fellow open trip strangers. But hey, this is where unexpected friendships are born, right? 😄

Once everyone’s packed in, the real off-road adventure begins as the jeep bounces its way through Bromo’s wild terrain. After that rollercoaster ride, you’ll finally arrive at the sunrise viewpoint 🌄

But wait—we’re not done yet. After sunrise hunting, your itinerary usually continues with stops at Mount Bathok, Mount Bromo itself, Widodaren, Pasir Berbisik, and more. The whole open trip thing usually wraps up around 10 AM, and then it’s the same process in reverse: switch back to the pickup car and head back to Malang. You’ll arrive around noon.

Whew! With minimal sleep, a jam-packed schedule, and that backpacker need to keep your energy up… open trips might not be the best fit for everyone. Budget-wise? Super worth it. Convenience? Top-tier.

But if there’s a comfier way with a similar price tag… why not take it, right? 😅

Rent a Jeep at Tosari Rest Area / Wonokitri Rest Area

My recommendation? Head to the Bromo area, spend a night there, then rent a budget-friendly jeep. I’ve already explained how to get to Tosari using the cheap DAMRI bus — now let’s talk about the jeep rental!

I suggest asking your hotel or guesthouse staff — they usually have partners for jeep services. You can also search on Google Maps and compare the prices. Just be cautious, and if possible, only pay when you meet the driver in person to avoid scams.

I found one on Maps that was super affordable — just IDR 650,000 (around $43.33 USD), already including the entrance ticket to Bromo and good for 4–6 people. That’s already around the average price and pretty cheap. If you find one cheaper, double-check it’s not a scam and see what’s included in the package. Sometimes when the price is cheap, the entrance fee to Bromo National Park might not be included, or the destinations may be limited.

Once you arrive at Tosari or Wonokitri Rest Area around 6 PM-ish, you can head straight to your chosen hotel. There are plenty of accommodations around Bromo — this place is internationally known, after all!

Here are some hotel and guesthouse recommendations that are close to both rest areas:

Sri Dewi Homestay

Sri Dewi Homestay in Pasuruan is a super comfy option if you wanna stay close to Bromo. The location is super strategic, just a few kilometers away from the Bromo sunrise point, plus they’ve got free Wi-Fi and a 24-hour front desk. Perfect for anyone looking to explore Bromo in comfort!

It’s just a 6-minute walk from Rest Area Tosari! And the price? Only around IDR 100,000 (approximately USD 6). Crazy, right?

Sumber : Traveloka

Casa Bromo Homestay

If you're looking for a more comfortable and strategic place to stay near the Bromo sunrise point, Casa Bromo Homestay could be the perfect choice. This homestay has complete facilities, from free Wi-Fi to a 24-hour front desk, so you can relax more during your vacation.

It's also not far from Rest Area Wonokitri, just a 9-minute motorbike ride away. And the price? Only around IDR 250,000 (approximately USD 16). Time to book it, besties!

Sumber : Traveloka

Lereng Bromo Hotel

Looking for a more luxurious and comfy stay? I recommend Lereng Bromo Hotel. It's just a 6-minute motorbike ride from Rest Area Wonokitri and 7 minutes from the trendy Taman Edelweis in Bromo. Go ahead, besties, book your stay now! Prices start from IDR 700,000 (around USD 45).

Don't miss out! 😻

Sumber: Traveloka

Long story short, we had some rest at the hotel (We stayed at Sri Dewi Homestay). Later that night, we were looking for a place to eat, so we searched for something good that's open late around the accommodation.

Turns out, there's a 24-hour food stall (at least that's what Maps said, but I’m not so sure) right in front of the hotel. Jackpot! It's called Warung Mak Ti Tosari, and eating here feels like you're dining above the clouds. Especially during sunset, wow.

The menu is super homely, with rice, boiled veggies, salted fish, and various other proteins. The sambal is delicious. I checked Maps and it turns out there are a lot of stalls like this. I think it’s pretty smart since they cook ingredients that are easy to find around the area.

After that, we called it a day and rested. I mean, we hadn’t had any time to relax all day — managing the health certificate, visiting Kajoetangan, and then traveling to Bromo. But at least our bellies were full, and we just had to wait for the pickup at 3 AM. Let's have some sleep!

Sunrise Hunting at Bromo

Long story short, we rested and woke up at 2 AM. Why one hour earlier? Because us girls wanted to look pretty, of course! 😄 The driver, who was also going to be our guide, picked us up.

We left at exactly 3 AM, and got to Bukit Cinta in less than 30 minutes. We arrived at 3:30 AM, haha. It was super smooth since there weren’t many cars on the road, so we stopped by a stall to warm up before heading to the sunrise spot. It was freezing cold!

If you're looking for a hidden gem, I'd also recommend checking out Bukit Prau! It's an amazing spot, and if you've seen those gorgeous photos of pretty Chinese girls on TikTok/Douyin, that's probably where they were taken! Definitely a must-visit if you're into beautiful views and stunning photos.

The plan was to walk to the sunrise spot after Fajr prayer to make sure our hearts were at ease. By 4:40, we were on our way, enjoying the walk to catch the sunrise. As usual, there were a lot of people in Bromo, but since I was in such a good mood and didn’t rush, I wasn’t really bothered. It was all good vibes!

Photo by Yusron El Jihan on Unsplash

After enjoying the sunrise, we explored a few more spots around Bromo. Since we rented a jeep, it’s super chill because we could just tell the driver where we wanted to go. Usually, it’s about 5 spots max, so it’s pretty much the same as the open trip offers.

Once we were done with the Bromo tour, we headed back to the accommodation. Super satisfied, plus we weren’t too tired. We tidied up, okay fine, we took a quick nap 😅, then packed everything again and checked out.

For the return trip to Malang, we followed the DAMRI KSPN schedule. From Rest Area Tosari, there are departures at 08:00 AM and 13:00 PM. We chose the 13.00 PM one so we wouldn't rush after the tour.

We made our way back to Malang, and from there, we hopped on a train to Banyuwangi Station. Once in Malang, we treated ourselves to some of the city's famous tasty food (including the ones we enjoyed before heading to Bromo). So yeah, it wasn’t just a trip, it was a full-on adventure! 😄

Malang Must Try Culinary

Malang is a student city, with lots of local and out-of-town students studying here. That's why you'll find a ton of cheap food, open from evening to early morning, with huge portions. You know, the student life is a little different—night feels like day, and day feels like night. So, focusing in class? Not always easy.

Malang really specializes in "sego-segoan" (rice dishes), like sego jagung (corn rice), sego mercon, or sego sambel. Basically, "sego" means rice, but what sets it apart is the sambel (spicy sauce) and the dishes that come with it—rich, bold, and full of flavor.

So, here's my recommendation for what's trending in Malang right now. Check out this list, guys!

Dimsum UmaYumcha Malang

One of my recommendations if you're visiting Malang: they serve dimsums that are always served fresh and hot, literally just made and served when you're ready to dig in. It's delicious and juicy, with a base of chicken meat that’s super local, so it’s very affordable.

They also have chicken feet, kind of like what you'd find in Chinese restaurants. The only downside is they don’t use chili oil here, they use their own homemade sambal sauce instead. It's not bad, though, because it’s unlimited and free. But still, it’s a bit of a bummer there’s no chili oil. I bet if they had it as a paid add-on, a lot of people would go for it.

Ayam Lalap Goreng Dieng

One of the trending spots for fried chicken and lalap in Malang is this place. They open at 5 PM until sold out, serving fried chicken with lalap. The fried chicken is delicious and they offer two types of sambal: sambal bawang (garlic sambal) and sambal dadak. This place specializes in garlic fried chicken, which is currently super hyped in Indonesia. The only downside is that if you dine in, you might not find a seat, so I’d recommend considering take-out if you're planning to go.

As another option, you can also head to Ayam Goreng Malabar, located right in front of Pasar Oro-Oro Dowo. Their fried chicken is also super tasty!

Oro-Oro Dowo Market Food Court

As the name suggests, inside Pasar Oro-Oro Dowo, there's a food court with plenty of culinary options for you to choose from. Just pick what suits you, then head home and enjoy! (Stecu stecu wkwk).

Here are a few of the food stalls. First, there's Ote-Ote Fam, which sells ote-ote. It's okay, but it feels a bit incomplete if you don't wait in line with the other tourists. Get ready for a 60-minute wait because the fried snacks are always fresh out of the wok.

There's also Lumpur Kentang 27, serving—of course—potato mud (lumpur kentang) 😂 It's really tasty, and the dough is super soft. Another one is Bakso Goreng Bagoplek, where they sell fried meatballs, and like the other stalls, it's always fresh and tends to run out quickly, so make sure to line up for this one. Lastly, there's Sego Liwet Bakar Kemangi, which serves delicious grilled rice. It's also really tasty!

Arrive at Malang Station Heading to Banyuwangi Kota Station

Just like on the way there, we got off at the starting point of the DAMRI KSPN, which is at Malang Station. The timing was perfect because it matched our train schedule to Banyuwangi this afternoon. We arrived at the station at 15:00 PM, while our train was scheduled for 17.00 PM. So, long story short, we waited a little bit until the train arrived 😅

We took the Tawang Alun train, the cheapest one (IDR 62.000/USD 4.00) from Malang to Banyuwangi. Now, there’s also a new train to Banyuwangi called Ijen Ekspres, priced at IDR 175,000 (around 11.67 USD). It’s about twice the price of Tawang Alun.

But we chose Tawang Alun because the schedule and price were just right for our budget and situation LOL. If you go for the Ijen Ekspres, it departs in the morning, at 7:50 AM. The duration is almost the same, just a 30-minute difference. The main difference is in the seats and departure time.

Tawang Alun still uses the regular economy seats, while the Ijen Express offers premium economy. If you want to stay another night in Malang and leave the next morning, it's better to take the Ijen Ekspres. But if you want to head straight to Banyuwangi, Tawang Alun is enough.

Long story short, we’re already on the train, heading to Banyuwangi. The city that's kinda spooky—well, not anymore! NGL that was back in the day. Now, Banyuwangi has rebranded itself as one of East Java's top tourist destinations, especially for those foreign backpackers crossing over to Bali. 🌍✌️

Inside the train, it's all about catching some sleep and rest. By the time we’re nearing our destination, we woke up and started getting our stuff ready for the Kawah Ijen hike.

Now, about Kawah Ijen… we decided to go with an open trip instead of DAMRI. Not that we were forced, but as a backpacker, it made sense. Sure, there’s DAMRI KSPN, but the price is inconsistent, and don't even get me started on the ticket situation.

Last time I checked, the DAMRI ticket to Kawah Ijen was around 120,000 IDR, which made me think, “Why not go for the open trip for only 200,000 IDR? You get a full package with a guide, gas mask, water, and transport, whereas with DAMRI, you’re basically on your own without a guide.” 🤔

NOTE : But the open trip price for foreign tourists seems to be different, please check again

So, we went for the open trip.

Long story short, we arrived at Banyuwangi Kota Station, and our train schedule synced perfectly with the open trip pick-up time, which is usually around 00:00 AM. The train arrived right on time at 11.24 PM And then…

Read the story of the trip in Banyuwangi
for 3 days and 4 nights in Part 3.

Next Part: [Part 3] Backpacking Jawa on a Budget : New City, Banyuwangi The Heaven on Earth