[Part 3] Backpacking Jawa on a Budget : New City, Banyuwangi The Heaven on Earth
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| Photo by Maksym Ivashchenko on Unsplash |
Banyuwangi, The Heaven on Earth
Banyuwangi isn’t just the gateway to the world-famous Ijen Crater—it’s also home to a wide range of natural gems that’ll seriously steal your heart. From the surreal blue flames in the middle of the night to the endless savanna views of Baluran National Park that’ll make you forget you’re still in Java—everything here makes Banyuwangi a must on your bucket list.
If you’re the type of backpacker who craves adventure but also wants a peaceful vibe, then let’s go explore the northern side of Banyuwangi—it’s hiding some seriously breathtaking spots!
Continuing the journey from Part 2, this time we’re diving into Banyuwangi Regency. It’s one of the most talked-about areas in East Java, especially famous for its epic nature tourism. And for backpacking foreigners heading to Bali, Banyuwangi is definitely the go-to route.
Previous Part : [Part 2] Backpacking Jawa on a Budget : Malang and The Famous Mount Malang
Kawah Ijen and The Blue Fire
Long story short, we arrived at Banyuwangi Kota Station right on time—our train schedule matched perfectly with the open trip pickup, which usually starts around midnight. Luckily, our train pulled in at exactly 11:23 PM.
We were picked up by the open trip crew, along with a bunch of other participants who were already in the van. No small talk, just a quick name check and headcount, then off we went straight to the Ijen Crater area. The ride takes almost an hour, and the hike itself starts at 2 AM—so yeah, no time to waste!
We arrived at the basecamp area around 1 AM. It was dark, cold, and buzzing with excitement—backpackers from everywhere, all bundled up in jackets, sipping coffee or instant noodles from the warungs while waiting for the guide’s cue. We got our gas masks handed out (essential, trust me) and did a quick briefing with the group.
By 2 AM sharp, the hike began. The first 1.5 hours were a steady uphill climb—rocky trail, cool night air, and the occasional whiff of sulfur reminding you that yes, this isn’t just any hike. The silence was only broken by the crunch of boots and a few "semangat!" shouts from fellow hikers.
As we got closer to the crater, the smell of sulfur got stronger, so we put on our gas masks. The descent into the crater was intense—steep, dusty, and a little slippery. But once we reached the bottom... man, the blue fire was unreal. Like something out of a sci-fi movie. It danced in the dark, almost surreal, and definitely one of the most unique natural wonders I’ve ever seen.
Blue Fire in the World? Only Two Places, Guys! One of them is in Indonesia – Kawah Ijen, Banyuwangi! 🔥
This rare phenomenon comes from burning sulfur gas, creating a glowing blue flame you can only see before sunrise. Plus, the crater holds the largest acidic lake in the world with stunning turquoise color. The other one? All the way in Dallol, Ethiopia—far and pricey. So if you want a more backpacker-friendly blue fire experience, Ijen’s your go-to!
We stayed for a while, took photos (carefully), and then climbed back up just in time for sunrise. That view from the crater rim? Chef’s kiss. The mix of golden light, thick mist, and turquoise crater lake below was magical. Everyone just stood there quietly, soaking it in. Worth every step.
By around 6 AM, we started the hike back down. Tired legs, sore feet, but hearts so full. Definitely a core memory kind of moment. We left the basecamp around 10 in the morning and finally reached our hotel by 11 AM—hungry, sleepy, but absolutely happy. Mission Ijen: complete!
UPDATE! I totally forgot about this—at Kawah Ijen, there's actually a human transport service LOL. Sounds a bit wild, right? Locals call them Lamborghini or Ferrari, depending on who’s pushing or carrying. Maybe this is one of Indonesia’s unique local wisdoms—unlike in developed countries that use high-tech cable cars, we still rely on human power.
It’s kind of like a pulley cart originally used to transport sulfur. Sulfur miners used it to carry sulfur from the crater to the top, then brought it down to Paltuding.
But as sulfur resources dwindle and the job gets harder, many have started repurposing their "cars" to carry tourists instead.
The price varies, from IDR 500,000–1,000,000 (~USD 31–62), depending on the distance and estimated weight of the passenger. Usually, people with leg pain or those too exhausted to walk use this, though some ride it just for fun—or to help the drivers earn a bit more income.
If you're interested, just ask directly and try to bargain nicely.
Say, “Kasih murah, Pak,” with a smile.
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| Photo by Fariez Nurkholiq on Unsplash |
Take A Rest After Hiking
After our trip to Kawah Ijen, we decided to rest completely until the night came. Since we weren’t used to hiking and walking such extreme paths, our legs were cramping up. So, make sure you get some exercise before you hike, okay! 😅
By the time we rested the whole afternoon, we got hungry and decided to look for some tasty food around the hotel (We stayed at Snooze Hostel Banyuwangi). At the same time, we were planning to rent a motorbike right in front of the guesthouse. We were gearing up to head to Baluran National Park! 🌿🚲
Cheap and Affordable Hotels in Banyuwangi
Banyuwangi, known as a popular tourist destination, offers a variety of hotels. From the cheapest ones that are perfect for backpackers like us, to the higher-end, star-rated ones that provide extra comfort.
My advice during this Java island trip is to pick accommodations based on two criteria: close to the station/airport/bus terminal and close to the tourist destinations you'll be visiting. If you follow these two things, I’m sure you’ll save a lot during your travels.
But of course, you’ll also need to be smart about finding affordable hotels or accommodations that still offer comfort and security. Here are my top three hotel recommendations:
Betah Homestay Banyuwangi
This homestay is such a cozy spot for anyone looking to staycation or explore Banyuwangi. Its location is super strategic, just a 13-minute motorbike ride from Banyuwangi Station, so it’s really easy to get around. The place is comfortable, with rooms that are well-equipped, including AC, WiFi, and even a shared kitchen if you want to cook.
What’s even better is the homestay’s aesthetic design and homey vibe. The staff is friendly, and you’ll definitely feel at home here. Prices start from around Rp250,000 (approximately $16 USD). It’s perfect for a relaxed vacation with friends or family but still offers that stylish hotel feel.
Book through the link below, guys.
Backpacker Kawah Ijen Homestay & Dormitory
This homestay is perfect for you backpackers who want to enjoy a trip to Kawah Ijen without breaking the bank. Its location is super strategic, close to the heart of Banyuwangi and just about an 8-minute motorbike ride from Banyuwangi Station.
It offers basic amenities like free WiFi, parking, and a restaurant, making it ideal for those looking for a practical and affordable place to stay. You can choose between dormitory rooms and private rooms, so it fits any budget.
The cheapest option starts at around Rp70,000 (approximately $4.50 USD). How can you beat that, right? 😂 Book it through the link below, guys!
Snooze Hostel Ijen
One of my favorite hostel brands has several branches in popular cities across Java, and one of them is right here in Banyuwangi.
The place has a cozy vibe, perfect for those who want to stay in a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere. As soon as you step in, you're greeted by a refreshing tropical ambiance with greenery all around. The homey feel is enhanced by the stylish seating areas and cool mural decorations.
Here, you can chill on the terrace while enjoying the fresh air, or cook together in the shared kitchen. With a location just 2 km from Banyuwangi Station, Snooze Ijen Hostel is the perfect spot for those looking for a comfortable and Instagram-worthy place to stay before continuing your adventure to Kawah Ijen! 🌿🌞
With prices starting as low as Rp100,000 (around $6.50 USD), you can enjoy the comfort and aesthetics of this hostel. Book now through the link below, guys!
Foodie Recommendations in Banyuwangi!
Banyuwangi is famous for its seafood because of its strategic coastal location. The abundance of fresh seafood is directly sourced from the Java Sea, making it a must-try for visitors. Local fishermen bring in a variety of fish, shrimp, and crabs daily, ensuring fresh and delicious dishes.
With its proximity to Bali, Banyuwangi also benefits from the influence of Balinese cuisine, giving a unique twist to its seafood offerings. However, since the majority of people in Banyuwangi are Muslim, the pork dishes are not as prevalent as in Bali. Whether you enjoy grilled fish, spicy sambals, or fresh sashimi, Banyuwangi's seafood will definitely satisfy your cravings.
Here are a few recommended places to eat from me:
Warung Ikan Bakar Hercules
Warung Ikan Bakar Hercules in Banyuwangi offers an exceptional seafood dining experience. The fish is incredibly fresh, with perfectly seasoned and evenly cooked flavors. Along with a variety of fish options, they also serve fresh shellfish, squid, and prawns, all cooked to perfection. The restaurant provides easy parking right in front of the place, ensuring a hassle-free visit. The atmosphere is comfortable and inviting, and the staff are friendly, making it a pleasant experience for all guests.
For those planning a family meal, this spot is highly recommended. It’s a great place to relax and enjoy delicious seafood in a safe, cozy setting. The addition of a toilet makes it even more convenient for longer meals, ensuring you can enjoy your time without interruptions. Whether you're visiting with family or friends, Warung Ikan Bakar Hercules is a top choice for seafood lovers in Banyuwangi.
Sego Tempong Mbok Wah
Sego Tempong Mbok Wah in Banyuwangi is a must-visit for anyone craving a bold and flavorful dining experience. This iconic eatery serves the famous "Sego Tempong," a dish made with spicy sambal, rice, and a variety of side dishes, including crispy fried fish or chicken. The sambal packs a punch, offering a perfect balance of heat and flavor that will satisfy anyone who loves spicy food. The portions are generous, and the prices are affordable, making it a popular spot among locals and tourists alike.
The restaurant has a casual, laid-back vibe, making it a great place to enjoy a delicious meal with friends or family. The service is fast and friendly, and despite being a busy spot, the place remains clean and well-maintained. If you're in Banyuwangi and looking for a place to experience traditional Indonesian flavors with a spicy twist, Sego Tempong Mbok Wah is definitely worth checking out.
Warung Ayam Betutu Spesial Mbak Timah
Warung Ayam Betutu Spesial Mbak Timah in Banyuwangi is a must-visit for those seeking authentic Balinese flavors. This eatery offers two main variations of Ayam Betutu: the traditional steamed version and the crispy fried one. Both are prepared with a rich blend of spices, delivering a flavorful and aromatic experience. The fried chicken is tender and juicy, while the steamed version is infused with a deep, savory taste.
The restaurant's ambiance is casual and welcoming, making it an ideal spot for a hearty meal with friends or family. Despite its location within a residential area, the place attracts a steady stream of customers, a testament to its popularity and the quality of its dishes. For those interested in enjoying this culinary delight, Warung Ayam Betutu Spesial Mbak Timah offers a genuine taste of Bali right in the heart of Banyuwangi.
Transportation Options in Banyuwangi
During our time in Banyuwangi, we used a few different modes of transportation. For places like Kawah Ijen and Baluran National Park, we want to use DAMRI cause we love the experiance before, but honestly, the pricing for Ijen has been all over the place lately. Plus, I heard that the route to Baluran was discontinued because of low demand. Total bummer.
I even reached out to DAMRI's customer service, and they mentioned that they might open a new route to Pulau Merah soon, but no word yet on when or if that'll actually happen. For the most up-to-date info, you can check their website, Instagram, or the DAMRI app for schedules.
But honestly, compared to relying on online taxis or public transport, we decided to go with renting a motorbike, which was way more convenient. The rental is pretty cheap—around IDR 300,000 to IDR 400,000 (about $20 to $26 USD) for three days, including gas for cruising around Banyuwangi. And if you’re traveling with a buddy, you can split the cost, making it even more affordable. Since Banyuwangi isn’t as big as places like Malang or Surabaya, public transportation options are pretty limited, so renting a motorbike is honestly the way to go! It gave us way more freedom to explore at our own pace without stressing about schedules. Super worth it, trust me.
Next Part : [Part 4] Backpacking Jawa on a Budget : Banyuwangi, The Africa van Java
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