[Part 1] Backpacking Jawa on a Budget: First Stop, Surabaya!

Backpacking Jawa on a Budget: First Stop, Surabaya!

Photo by Rasyid Maulana on Unsplash

If you're craving a trip that’s rich in culture, food, and adventure—without burning through your wallet—Java Island has you covered.

From Kalimantan (csz I live in Kalimantan), I planned a budget-friendly backpacking journey across Java, exploring popular destinations, using public transport, and keeping costs low. I’ve got the full itinerary, travel hacks, and all the must-see spots lined up for you — with budget details revealed in the final part!

As I mentioned earlier, this journey is all about budget-friendly travel, so every choice for transportation and accommodation will be made with cost-effectiveness in mind for the thrifty traveler. The cheapest way to travel from Kalimantan to Java is by ship, such as PELNI, the public ferry, or KMP/DLU. Because honestly, taking a flight will just burn a hole in your pocket 😂

Since our main destination is still Java, which is essentially the hub of shipping in Indonesia, PELNI is the best option. PELNI has its pros and cons. The pros are it’s cheap, somewhat “comfortable,” you get three meals a day, and it reaches many small islands across the archipelago. The cons, though, are it’s not always the cleanest—but honestly, it’s hit or miss. If you’re willing to make an effort, you can usually find a clean restroom.

The reason for the cleanliness issue on PELNI ships isn’t without a reason. Imagine, if you’re traveling from Jayapura, you’d be sailing for a whole week before reaching your final destination in Surabaya, where fresh water is limited. Sure, the ship refills its fresh water whenever it docks at a port, but it’s still limited compared to the number of people on board. And that’s where the problem lies—people don’t seem to care about how much water they’re using. Washing clothes, taking long showers, and using water wastefully means the supply runs out pretty quickly. And if you’re unlucky, you might even find some floating "tokai" (poops) on the bathroom floor (I’ve experienced it myself, unfortunately, hiksss).

But lately, PELNI has been making improvements. You can see it on some ships, where public restrooms and common areas have been renovated. The toilets that used to be in pretty bad shape have now been replaced with stainless steel models, making them look more hygienic. Though, cleanliness is still ultimately the responsibility of the passengers themselves.

So, after sorting out the ship ride, we’ll continue the journey. Once we’re on Java, the next challenge is getting around the island. Since we’re still on a budget, we’ll stick with the cheapest options available, like local buses or trains.

Next!

From Tarakan (North Kalimantan) to Tanjung Perak Port in Surabaya

It depends on where you start in Kalimantan, or it could even be from another island. For example, I’m starting from Tarakan Island, North Kalimantan. The thing is, there’s no direct ship from here to Java, so you’ll have to transit at least in Balikpapan or Makassar first. The cheapest option is through Makassar, but if you’re looking for a faster route, Balikpapan is the way to go. So, you can choose based on what works best for you.

From Tarakan to Balikpapan and Makassar, there are only two available PELNI passenger ships: Bukit Siguntang and Lambelu. If you're taking the route via Balikpapan, the only PELNI ship I know that sails to Surabaya is Dorondola. However, if you're opting for DLU, there are plenty of options. Just check out the DLU website for the ship schedules on the day you want to travel. Check this link to book your ticket on DLU.

If you're taking the route via Makassar to Surabaya, there are plenty of PELNI and DLU ship options available, and the price difference is only about a hundred rupiahs, so you can choose based on your preferences and situation. To book a PELNI ticket, you can use this link.

Examples:

The ship schedule, the ship in service, and the costs may change at any time. Please check the PELNI website/app to confirm.

You can just adjust according to the budget, time, and the convenience of the transit schedule. My suggestion is, if you're transiting, choose a cheap hotel or homestay that's within walking distance. It's a good way to save on travel costs!

FYI, ever heard a ship's horn? Man, it's loud! The ship usually honks once when unloading passengers and cargo is done, meaning the ship's about to raise the middle gangway. Street vendors, workers, and port folks usually head off at this point. Only passengers are allowed to board through the back gangway. If the horn sounds three times, it means the ship’s about to leave the port and sail away. Passengers can still board, as long as the gangway is there 😁 but I'd recommend boarding right after the horn sounds once.

Surabaya - Jawa Timur

Once you get to Surabaya, I'd suggest spending a night here. Especially for beginner backpackers and those taking a ship for the first time. You’ll probably feel dizzy after getting off the ship because of all the time spent on the sea. It's totally normal, though. But if you’re ready to keep going, that’s fine too!

Why do I recommend resting for a day in Surabaya? Aside from sea sickness, it’s also to help keep your itinerary on track for the upcoming weeks during your journey on Java Island. Ships are different from other forms of transportation with fixed schedules; their departure and arrival times aren’t as predictable. Ships sometimes arrive earlier or later (most of the time, they’re delayed), usually due to weather issues like big waves or mechanical problems with the ship.

Especially at busy ports like Tanjung Perak Port, ships can end up waiting in line to dock, even though they say passenger ships get priority. Many people have even experienced delays of up to 6 hours just to dock at the port. So, to anticipate these potential delays and avoid messing up your itinerary for the rest of the trip, it's best to leave a whole day open.

If it happens to be on time, alhamdulillah, it's just a precaution. Besides, we can always chill in the port's waiting area or head to a budget-friendly hotel in the city center. During your day in Surabaya, you can enjoy some local Surabaya delicacies or take a tour around the city using the Suroboyo Bus.

Here are some must-try dishes when you visit Surabaya:

1. Rawon

This East Java specialty is famous for its black broth made from kluwek/keluek spices. With a savory, slightly sweet, and aromatic flavor, rawon is one of the must-try dishes when visiting Surabaya. Here are some recommendations for delicious rawon spots in Surabaya.

🍲 Rawon Kalkulator

• Address: Sentra PKL Tamam Bungkul, Jl. Raya Darmo, Darmo, Kec. Wonokromo, Surabaya, Jawa Timur 60241

• Operating Hours: Daily, 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

• Highlights: Known for its rich broth and savory beef, a must-try for rawon lovers.

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🥘 Warung Rawon & Semur H. Suparan

• Address: Jl. Raya Lidah Wetan No.41, Jeruk, Kec. Lakarsantri, Surabaya, Jawa Timur 60212

• Operating Hours: Daily, 06:30 AM – 08:00 PM

• Highlights: Famous for its delicious rawon and semur, perfect for a comforting meal.

Photo by Aldrin Rachman Pradana on Unsplash

2. Mie Kluntung dan Soto Lamongan

There are a few reasons why it’s called mie kluntung. Some say it’s because the seller used to hang a kluntung (a traditional bell) on their cart, while others believe the name comes from the sound of a spoon or ladle stirring the noodles in a big iron wok. Whatever the story behind the name, mie kluntung is still delicious. Here are some recommended spots to try Mie Kluntung.

🍜 Mie Kluntung dan Nasi Goreng Jawa Mas Joko

• Address: Jl. Indrakila No.1 A, RT.000/RW.00, Pacar Keling, Kec. Tambaksari, Surabaya, Jawa Timur 60131

• Operating Hours: Daily, 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

• Highlights: Known for its delicious mie kluntung and flavorful Nasi Goreng Jawa, perfect for a satisfying meal.

Soto Lamongan is a signature dish from a region call Lamongan, but there's a famous restaurant in Surabaya called Soto Lamongan Cak Har. Yup, this popular soto lamongan spot has many branches across Indonesia. The main branch is in Surabaya, besties! Here’s the address:

🍲 Soto Lamongan Cak Har Cabang Pusat

• Address: Jl. Arief Rahman Hakim, Keputih, Kec. Sukolilo, Surabaya, Jawa Timur 60117

• Operating Hours: Daily, 07:00 AM – 09:00 PM

• Highlights: Famous for its rich, flavorful soto with a special taste that has made it a local favorite.

Popular Tourist Attractions in Surabaya

What makes a tourist spot “hits”? LOL, well, it definitely has to be talked about a lot on social media like TikTok or Instagram! While you’re figuring out your food itinerary from the spots above, you can also visit these trending places in Surabaya.

Even though Surabaya is already a metropolitan city, the second largest after Jakarta, there are still plenty of attractions to check out. Most of them focus on culinary tourism and urban culture. Here are a few recommendations from me:

🏙️ Kota Lama Surabaya (Old Town)

• Address: Jl. Rajawali Jl. Jembatan Merah, Kota Lama, Kec. Krembangan, Surabaya, Jawa Timur.

• Highlights: A historical area featuring colonial architecture, perfect for a walk back in time while enjoying the city’s charm.

Photo by Dominic Kurniawan Suryaputra on Unsplash

Actually, on Maps, there are both Kota Lama and Kota Tua, but... essentially, both refer to the old heritage areas in Surabaya. The names might confuse you though! Usually, Kota Lama refers to the area around Jembatan Merah, Krembangan, and Jalan Rajawali. This was the core of colonial Surabaya during the Dutch colonial era. You’ll find many old buildings like Gedung Internatio, Cerutu, Tugu Pahlawan, and more. On the other hand, Kota Tua also has its share of historic buildings and is close to China Town on Jalan Kembang Jepun.

So, if you’re heading there, make sure to double-check which one you’re going to!

🛍️ Tunjungan Plaza

• Address: Jl. Tunjungan No. 1, Surabaya, Jawa Timur.

• Highlights: One of Surabaya’s largest and most popular shopping malls, offering a wide range of shops, dining options, and entertainment. Perfect for a day of shopping or just hanging out!

Once you’re done shopping and window shopping at Tunjungan Plaza, you can head over to the Museum Surabaya on Jalan Tunjungan. It’s a great spot to explore local household collections and learn about the history of Surabaya city.

Photo by Taufik H on Unsplash

🏛️ Alun-Alun Surabaya dan Museum Bawah Tanah Balai Pemuda

• Address: Jl. Gubernur Suryo No.15, Embong Kaliasin, Kec. Genteng, Surabaya, Jawa Timur 21256
• Highlights: A historical square with the Museum Bawah Tanah Balai Pemuda located underneath it. Perfect for exploring Surabaya’s cultural and historical sites, featuring underground exhibits and the vibrant city atmosphere above ground.

It just doesn’t feel right visiting a city without snapping some pics in front of its main square, right? 😂 Especially in Surabaya — the city square (Alun-Alun) is super modern! It’s just a 10-minute walk from Tunjungan Plaza, perfect for a chill stroll.

But heads up — if you’re visiting during the dry season, don’t forget your sunscreen and an umbrella, because Surabaya is famously hot! 🔥

Right near the square, you’ll also find the Museum Bawah Tanah Balai Pemuda, featuring interactive, high-tech, and super aesthetic exhibits. Definitely worth checking out!

🎓 Museum Pendidikan Surabaya

• Address: Jl. Genteng Kali No.10, Genteng, Kec. Genteng, Surabaya, Jawa Timur 60275

• Highlights: A museum dedicated to the history of education in Indonesia. You’ll find old school tools, uniforms, and classroom setups from different eras. It’s a nostalgic and eye-opening stop for anyone curious about how education evolved over time in Surabaya and beyond.

From Surabaya Town Square (Alun-Alun), you can just walk about 300 meters to the Yos Sudarso bus stop and hop on bus number 7A heading toward Pasar Turi Station. Get off at the Dinas Pendidikan stop, and the museum is only a short 100-meter walk from there. Super easy!

This museum officially opened on November 25, 2019—right on National Teacher’s Day. Fun fact: the building used to be Taman Siswa, one of the first schools for native Indonesians before independence. Now, it showcases all kinds of cool stuff about the history of education in Indonesia through the years.

The museum is closed on Mondays, but open Tuesday to Friday from 8 AM to 9 PM. Entry tickets can be bought on-site—Rp5,000 for general visitors and Rp3,000 for students (cash or QRIS accepted). You can also book online via their official website, here's the link.

Photo by Yoyo Hins Itta on Unsplash

Aside from the spots above, there are so many more trending places to explore in Surabaya! For example, there’s Rustic Market, a countryside-style café that feels like a little slice of Europe, and North Quay, which you can visit right at the port. You’ll just need to pay a small entry fee to get inside the building. Once you’re in, you can chill with a view of the sunset while watching ships docked at the harbor—so calming!

Also, here are some TikTok videos recommending even more cool and unique places you might want to check out.

Place To Go in Surabaya Pt.1

Place To Go in Surabaya Pt. 2

Cheap and Affordable Hotels in Surabaya

If you’re planning to stay in Surabaya for a bit, I highly recommend finding a budget-friendly and comfy place to stay near Gubeng Station. Why? Well, the biggest reason is because we’re just transiting in Surabaya—no need to go all out, hehe 😄.

When it’s time to hop on the train to your next destination, you can just walk to the station with your carrier in tow. Easy peasy, right?

There are plenty of affordable hotel options in Surabaya, besties! Here are some recommendations just for you! 💼🏨✨

Sahid Hotel Surabaya

Sahid Surabaya Hotel is a 3-star hotel with a super strategic location right in the heart of Surabaya. It's close to Gubeng Station, the Submarine Monument, and Surabaya Plaza Mall—so basically, it’s easy to get anywhere from here!

They’ve got everything you need: comfy rooms, a restaurant, gym, karaoke, and even 24-hour room service. Whether you're here for a quick holiday or a business trip, this place checks all the boxes. ✅

The best part? Rooms start at just around IDR 300,000 (USD 18.75) and you already get AC. Crazy value, right? I’ve personally reviewed this hotel, and if you’re interested, you can book it through my link! Same price, but you’ll be helping me earn a lil' coffee money too ☕😉

Sumber: Traveloka

New Coklat Hotel

This 3-star hotel is all about location, location, location! 📍 It's right on Jl. Gubeng Pojok No. 3, just a short walk from Gubeng Station—yes, you can literally walk there with your backpack. Super convenient! You're also just a lazy stroll (or “ngesot” if you will 😂) away from Grand City Mall and Surabaya Plaza. So if you're up for shopping or looking for a bite to eat, it’s all nearby.

For around IDR 350,000 (USD 21.88), you and your bestfriend can get a comfy, air-conditioned room. Booking link’s right below—go grab that deal! 💸👇

Sumber: Traveloka

The Life Styles Hotel Surabaya

This 3.5-star hotel is a total gem if you're staying around Gubeng, Surabaya. It’s super strategically located—only about a 3-minute walk from Gubeng Station, and it’s literally just across the street from the old station building. Talk about convenient!

Plaza Surabaya is also super close, so you won’t have any trouble finding food or doing a bit of shopping. Wanna explore more? You’ve got Monumen Kapal Selam just a short walk away. For more iconic spots like Taman Bungkul or Tugu Pahlawan, you can hop on an online motorbike taxi (ojek)—super quick and easy!

Perfect for those who wanna stay central but still feel comfy. Price around IDR 300.000 (USD 18.68) Grab the deal now guys 💼🎒

Sumber: Traveloka

Public Transportation in Surabaya

If you're backpacking in Surabaya, I highly recommend using the Suroboyo Bus. It's affordable, convenient, and well-connected. You can catch it from the port terminal all the way to Purabaya Bus Terminal. It's perfect for those who need to continue their journey by bus to another city. You can also easily take a Gojek for convenience 😁

For example, from Tanjung Perak Port, you can board the Suroboyo Bus R2 at the bus stop right in front of the terminal. Take the bus heading to Purabaya Terminal. Get off at Simpang Dukuh, then walk around 3 minutes to reach Tunjungan Plaza.

If you want to go to Stasiun Gubeng, the R2 bus also passes by Alun-Alun Surabaya, but it's a bit far from the station—around 1 km. But honestly, taking the bus to the city center is your best bet, and then you can just hop on a Gojek to your final destination. A Gojek ride for 1 km usually costs around IDR 10,000.

Suroboyo Bus fares:

• IDR 5,000 for adults

• IDR 2,500 for students

It only accepts QRIS or cashless payments. For other routes, you can check Google Maps since everything is well-integrated!

Transit Complete in Surabaya - Heading to Malang

Malang, a beautiful and cool city in East Java. When you hear the word Malang, you probably just think of Malang apples, LOL. Just kidding 😂

The main reason we chose Malang is because we’re heading to BROMO. PERIOD. The top reason we wanted to backpack through Java was to visit a tourist destination that’s been on our wishlist for a long time. Ugh, every time I see people uploading videos from Bromo on TikTok, I swear I just need to go there! Well, technically Bromo isn’t in Malang, but the easiest access is from Malang. There are many open trip services available to get you to Bromo.

So, how can we get to Malang on a budget but still comfortably? Here are some transportation options to get there:

By Train

You can depart from Gubeng Station in Surabaya to Malang. Both economy and executive class trains are available, with a journey time of about 2-3 hours. Train tickets usually range from IDR 70,000 - IDR 150,000, depending on the type of train and class. Yo can use KAI ACCESS for booking the ticket.

By Bus

You can catch a bus from Purabaya Terminal (Bungurasih), located on the outskirts of Surabaya, to Malang. The bus ride takes around 2-3 hours. Bus tickets cost around IDR 40,000 - IDR 75,000, depending on the bus type. You can use Red Bus or Traveloka for booking bus ticket.

By Travel (Private Shuttle)

For more comfort, you can choose a travel service or shuttle, which will take you directly to your hotel or destination in Malang. The travel time is around 2-2.5 hours, with prices ranging from IDR 75,000 - IDR 150,000 per person. You can use Red Bus, Traveloka, and looking up at the Google Maps for booking bus ticket.

Tips

If you're short on time or want a more comfortable ride, taking the train is a good choice. If you prefer something more practical and hassle-free, prefer to take travel or shuttle services.

Since I chose to take this train, here's how it goes.

Surabaya Gubeng Station - Malang Station

For this route, there are many transportation options available. You can take a bus, travel, or train. We’ll go with the train because it's the cheapest and most popular option, yay!

There are local trains on this route that serve various areas in East Java, such as Penataran Dhoho, Dhoho Penataran, and Tumapel. For schedules and tickets, especially for local trains and commuter lines, you can check directly through the app (tickets can be purchased via the app or at the station). This is different from long-distance trains, where you can check the schedule on the website (tickets can be purchased via the website, travel apps, or KAI Access).

Photo by muhammad arief on Unsplash

Local trains are very affordable, with the most expensive ticket priced at IDR 24,000 and the cheapest at IDR 10,000. However, these local trains still use the old-school vertical seats typical of economy class, so don’t expect much comfort. Also, make sure to check the duration of your journey on the ticket, as some trips last about two hours, while others can take up to seven hours. The Dhoho-Penataran trains are essentially the same, but the name and journey time vary depending on the destination. So make sure to pay attention to the details, besties!

While local train schedules can only be checked on the app, long-distance trains can be checked and booked through the KAI website or travel apps like Traveloka. For long-distance trains, you have the option of Jayabaya and Arjuno Express. These express trains are equipped with premium economy seats, so no more worrying about squeezing next to a neighbor! But of course, they are a bit more expensive than the local trains

This is the KAI ACCESS website for booking tickets.

Similar to Surabaya, Malang also offers a variety of tourist destinations that are easily accessible. However, unlike Surabaya, which has city buses, Malang doesn't have this option available yet.

There are angkots (public minivans), but it might be a bit challenging for tourists since you need to memorize the routes and angkot codes. My suggestion, especially if you're just staying for one day like I am, is to rent a motorbike or use Gojek. It's more convenient, especially if you're traveling short distances.

The motorbike rental price varies, starting from around IDR 70,000 to IDR 100,000. You can adjust it to your budget.

From the station, we'll head to the accommodation using Gojek since I plan to stay overnight in Malang, so there's no need to rent a motorbike. Here are some affordable and aesthetic hotel recommendations from me:

Cheap and Affordable Hotels in Malang

Bobopod Alun-Alun Malang

For around IDR 250,000 (approximately USD 16), you can enjoy a capsule hotel right in the heart of Malang. The experience at this hotel is great because it's surrounded by the lush trees that are typical of Malang. 🌳✨ It includes an AC room and private space, although it follows a shared room concept due to its capsule-style design. 🛏️💫

Go ahead and book! 📲

Sumber: Traveloka

So! Boutiqe Hostel Malang

If you're looking for a cool, affordable, and strategic place to stay in Malang, So! Boutique Hostel could be the perfect choice! This hostel is perfect for budget travelers who still want a comfy and aesthetic place to stay. Located at Jl. Majapahit No. 1G, Klojen, Malang, it’s just a stone's throw away from Malang Station and the Alun-Alun Kota. So, you can easily walk to various tourist spots and trendy food places in the city center without hassle.

For around IDR 100,000 (approximately USD 6), you can stay at this amazing hostel. 💸🛏️

Sumber: Traveloka

Snooze Hostel Malang

This hostel is perfect for backpackers or solo travelers who want to stay in a cozy and strategic spot. Located in the Klojen area, Snooze Hostel is just about 725 meters from Malang's city center. It's close to various tourist spots, restaurants, and public facilities, making it easy for you to explore the city.

With a budget of around IDR 200,000 (approximately USD 13), you can stay at this cool and chill hostel. 🌟

Sumber: Traveloka

Kampoeng Heritage Kajoetangan dan Handle the Health Certificate from the Doctor

After checking into your chosen hotel, drop off your things, and freshen up. Finally, take a break and stretch your back; carrying your backpack can be exhausting, right?

The next day, wake up early! During your vacation, you need to be disciplined—sleep early and wake up early so that you won’t waste a single moment of the day.

Before heading out to explore, we need to get a health certificate at the nearest health center. Why do we need a health certificate? Well, it’s a requirement for going to Kawah Ijen! The new rule from the management is that you must have a health certificate from a doctor issued no more than 3 days before hiking Kawah Ijen.

You can just say, "Saya mau buat Surat Keterangan Sehat untuk ke Kawah Ijen."

Why now? 😂

Because the health certificate needs to be made no more than 3 days before climbing Kawah Ijen, so it worked out perfectly to get it in Malang, just 3 days before the hike. If we did it in Surabaya, it would have been too early, and Kalimantan? Definitely too far. So, we made it in Malang! Before heading to Kajoetangan, we stopped by the puskesmas.

Long story short, after finishing, we took a Gojek to Kajoetangan. The entrance fee is only Rp5.000, and you get to enjoy the beauty of Kajoetangan. Don’t forget to stop by Mera Coffee for your daily caffeine fix!

We only stayed until 4 PM because we needed to head back to the hotel to grab our stuff and then go to the station. What’s next?

Becouse we're heading to BROMO.

NEXT IN PART 2, GOT TOO LONG LOL

Baca juga: [Part 2] Backpacking Jawa on a Budget: Malang and The Famous Mount Bromo